Stieler Jacket In Progress, HoTN
I've spent the past few days doing some exciting swatching, trying to refine a colorwork pattern and creating a schematic for a short jacket for History on Two Needles.
It started when I saw this magnificent jacket in this painting. I found the colorwork very inspiring, and wondered what yarn would work well to achieve the feeling of the sweater. I knew it should be a larger yarn, not something small and fine as is generally used in colorwork.
I knew it would also have to be lightweight so this would be a wearable garment, so I wanted to avoid a heavy yarn. I thought a ribbon would be nice, but it would have to be the right ribbon, and I'd want to use it with a more stable worsted weight yarn.
I received a ball each of Valentina in Honeycomb and Sunshine in Nutmeg from Trendsetter, and started playing around them. I discovered that I really liked the effect I achieved by using them doubled for the darker areas, then switching to a single strand of Valentina for the lighter areas.
Using both yarns together was an interesting effect, but the color change wasn't as clear cut as I wanted.
Right around the same time I photoshopped the sleeve of the jacket and exploded it to create a repeating pattern. I dropped that into Appleworks, where I make my charts, and made an initial pass at the pattern.
I knew it would be best to do a traditional color changing, stranded colorwork and give up my double/single strand kooky method. But with such thick yarns I wanted to keep the floats as short as possible.
So I reworked my intial chart to include more color changes, thus reducing the areas with large floats.
When I liked the swatch I came up with, I created a schematic in Appleworks.
I took the chart and created a repeating pattern in Photoshop, then filled in the schematic (adding fur cuffs and collar and a waistband) to create a working sketch. Yes, this not-very passionate, cut and dried, measured image is my sketch.
I guess I'm still a pattern drafter (vs. a draper) at heart.

I'm thinking the colors I want to use are Bronze & Chocolate. I may reverse them (lighter color in Sunshine and the dark contrast in Valentina) just for fun. Decisions, decisions...
It started when I saw this magnificent jacket in this painting. I found the colorwork very inspiring, and wondered what yarn would work well to achieve the feeling of the sweater. I knew it should be a larger yarn, not something small and fine as is generally used in colorwork.I knew it would also have to be lightweight so this would be a wearable garment, so I wanted to avoid a heavy yarn. I thought a ribbon would be nice, but it would have to be the right ribbon, and I'd want to use it with a more stable worsted weight yarn.
I received a ball each of Valentina in Honeycomb and Sunshine in Nutmeg from Trendsetter, and started playing around them. I discovered that I really liked the effect I achieved by using them doubled for the darker areas, then switching to a single strand of Valentina for the lighter areas.
Using both yarns together was an interesting effect, but the color change wasn't as clear cut as I wanted.
Right around the same time I photoshopped the sleeve of the jacket and exploded it to create a repeating pattern. I dropped that into Appleworks, where I make my charts, and made an initial pass at the pattern.
I knew it would be best to do a traditional color changing, stranded colorwork and give up my double/single strand kooky method. But with such thick yarns I wanted to keep the floats as short as possible.So I reworked my intial chart to include more color changes, thus reducing the areas with large floats.
When I liked the swatch I came up with, I created a schematic in Appleworks. I took the chart and created a repeating pattern in Photoshop, then filled in the schematic (adding fur cuffs and collar and a waistband) to create a working sketch. Yes, this not-very passionate, cut and dried, measured image is my sketch.
I guess I'm still a pattern drafter (vs. a draper) at heart.

I'm thinking the colors I want to use are Bronze & Chocolate. I may reverse them (lighter color in Sunshine and the dark contrast in Valentina) just for fun. Decisions, decisions...Labels: HoTN

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14 Comments:
I really enjoyed this post. I've always wondered how designers work, especially for complicated things like this. Can't wait to see the finished result!
Wow Annie!
I cannot wait for this book to come out. Everytime you post another inspiration photo, I start to salivate.
Love it. Love the concept. Love the eras.
Keep up the good work.
So lovely! Can't wait to see more.
Ohhh... I really love the pattern. Interesting yarn choices.
It's going to be beautiful!
I liked pattern drafting more than draping myself. :-)
oops! i type too fast. before i even clicked on the pic of katerina rosa botsaris and saw her name (it's pretty tiny in my google reader, i could tell she was greek. :-)
Fascinating!! Glad you're sharing.
Athena.. I thought so as well! We Greek women gotta stick together (even if I'm half Greek it's still enough)
The design had such a Byzantine feel to it. Plus the tasseled hat is a give-a-way!
Oh that looks amazing, I haven't tried very much stranded colorwork but I might be tempted to try that.
I'd be interested if you don't mind sharing. How do you adjust the patterns to account for the more plush among us?
(That is one of the things I _LOVE_ about _Romantic Knits_, graceful patterns that actually go up to my bust size!)
As an art historian and a knitter, I am so looking forward to this book!
Thanks for sharing something about your process.
Cheers!
Don't we sort of HAVE to be drafters vs. drapers in knitting? Probably the best are some of each. I'm definitely a drafter though; I even used a protractor the other day. Since you already have the inspiration piece to start with, you know where you want to go, and there's no real reason to make some sort of gestalt drawing. And once you're there, it's all the numbers and angles and slopes and curves. I think a draper might MAKE beautiful things, but the drafter's the one who can actually transcribe her vision onto paper so that others can follow it.
I'm loving this piece all over though!
I can't wait to see what happens to that colorwork pattern. I am loving it.
wow. luv it! love the color choices too! i'm impressed with the computer transition.....
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