What GIVES?
Dear Annie,
I saw the preview for your Western Point skirt today on the IK site, and noted that it is made with Tilli Tomas yarn also. Please don't take this the wrong way, but why are you using a yarn that is so expensive? I don't know one knitter that can afford that yarn, much less to make such a big item like a skirt. If I were interested in make a design with this yarn, it would take some serious research to get a yarn that has the same drape, heft, sheen, etc. but without a $35/sk price tag. What gives, Annie?
- Christina
Christina, I feel your pain. Here's how I explain it:
When designing a sweater, or any garment, there are parameters which have to be set. Generally, for me, these involve (but are not limited to) the following criteria:
Is it do-able (physically possible for someone else to create)
Is it attractive or interesting to inspire someone to make it?
Does it break any barriers or do anything new?
Will it be fun to work up?
Do I like it - would I like to make it if I saw it published?
Sidebar to these main concerns are:
Can it be made to be flattering on a variety of figure types?
Does the cost of the materials justify the garment?
It's important to have some limitations when designing - in fact, I find parameters a good way to focus my mind and compel myself to be a bit more creative. But I can't make every person happy with every design.
The answer to Christina's question is that the Tilli Tomas yarn is the only yarn that felt 100% right for this skirt. There is NO other yarn out there that had inspired me - for this skirt - like the Tilli Tomas did.
By definition, a skirt will take a lot of yarn - and in the case of this skirt the design came first, yarn choice second.
When a sample ball of the yarn was sent to me I realized that it was such a perfect fit that I had to change the yarn originally intended for the skirt. The drape, the flow, the lightness of a knitted fabric ribbon is a wonderful thing - and excellent for a skirt. I felt very lucky that I found the perfect fiber for my design.
I've known (KNOW!) what it's like to have a limited budget. To make this skirt will be expensive; you will either pay in $$, or you will pay in time spent finding or making a substitute. For many knitters this is part of the challenge that is quite enjoyable. In the case of Nile and Cleopatra, I hadn't found another yarn that fulfilled the same feeling as the Tilli Tomas yarn.
Yes, you can find substitutes for this yarn. Alternatively, you could buy some silk dupioni yarn and cut it into strips and knit with that (the yarn created by this technique will be similar to the new Lantern Moon yarn by Leigh Radford, which has thready edges and is connected with knots. I will have a skirt worked up in this yarn in my book, Romantic Knits - yes, another skirt!) I know that involves a lot of work, but anything worthwhile is going to take sacrifice (either in expense or time) and - when all is said and done - that's part of the whole beauty of knitting.
We put a lot into our knitting - those of us who are fortunate to be able to afford expensive yarns buy them without thinking twice. Most of us save up and buy something special when we can afford it. Many of us choose less expensive alternatives (and there are some magnificent ones out there!). I try to cover a broad range of yarns and prices in my books (Men Who Knit will feature several items worked up in Knit Picks yarns to provide a balance of yarns for several price ranges.
So I guess the short answer is that what gives is that I could not have made that skirt in any other yarn - I wasn't inspired to do it. I tried, but the Nile and Cleopatra yarn spoke to me in a way that I couldn't ignore. And the Tilli Tomas is amazingly fun to knit with - that is something I can't ignore, either!
Regularly Scheduled
I was going to post about my knitters for this book, and how the process has been a tremendous learning experience. There have been two instances where garments weren't completed, but I feel that these ended up being positive for both myself and the knitter in question (I hope!) In both instances I had to finish the garment and learned a lot about explaining exactly what it is I'm looking for in a knitter.
I've been amazingly gratified, though, with the high quality of the knitting that's come in. I was stunned to receive this skirt back from HOLLAND about 2 weeks after I'd sent it to Miriam Tegels (the world's fastest knitter) - she did a MAGNIFICENT job on it! If she wasn't off camping right now I'd have her knit up another project (or 3) for me!
This lovely sweater came in from Oregon - Carol's working up a pair of stockings for me, too - THANKS Carol!
This was one of the unfinished pieces. My knitter worked like a maniac on it, and did a WONDERFUL job, but it wasn't until she was binding off that she realized how far off the gauge was. This has happened to EVERYONE - and I felt under pressure due to time constraints, but not really upset with the knitter - it was more of a communication failure than anything else, and communication takes two people!
Since the garment was easily twice the size it needed to be, I did a little judicious sew, cut & sewing and have altered the pattern a bit. It's still a surplice, it's still lace, but now it ties in the front. The pattern will, of course, be rewritten to reflect this. This happens every now and then, and quite often it turns out being a very happy accident!Back to my knitting - a skirt to finish today, some lace edging to add to another piece AND two hats to work up. Wish me luck!









16 Comments:
I understand about the design element and the yarn cost, and agree with you. The finished stuff lookes great,(esp. that skirt!) I'm not sure what the last one was supposed to look like, but it's still amazing!
Thanks.
I completely agree with everything you said about the expense of that yarn. One thing you didn't mention is that it's a SILK SKIRT -- even if you buy a silk skirt in s store (that isn't Kmart) it's gonna be pricy. People are used to different prices for different pieces of clothing, and the same applies for knitting. I think some knitters are still stuck on the idea that knitting saves you money, when in my experience I spend more on yarn than on retail clothing!
Annie,
Thanks for sticking to your guns and not putting the blame off on someone else...like the publisher of the magazine, the other yarn vendors out there...you know... the rest of the kniterati.
There was a letter from the editor in the last edition of IK, explaining the process involved in bringing a pattern to life in the magazine. Maybe Christina of the comments should go back and take a look at it.
I see knitted items all the time in magazines where the pattern looks fabulous, but the yarn is all wrong for the item.
I'm glad you're able to make your own decisions about the yarn and stick to them.
Sara in Ohio
In Christina's defense, I DO know exactly what she means. And I do try to consider the expense of a garment quite often when I design it - but not always.
To be constrained by money in the dreaming stages forestalls the ability to come up with something sensational (which may be recreated in a more budget-minded manner later...)
I was thrilled to see your name on the cover of the Fall Interweave as featured designer. I can't wait for my copy to arrive. Congrats!
Hi Annie,
You know, while working on the Egyptian dress, the cost of the project has not escaped my notice. Then I thought - wait a minute, it's $28 for a 100 gram/260 yd skein! That's a fair price! By the way - I just started the colorwork for the bust. Tonight? Tomorrow? I'll be done really soon :).
the wrap front sweater- GORGEOUS.
The Sweater from Oregon......Oh my word, ON MY LIST OF MUST MAKES!
Yum. Annie, in a word: YUM.
Keep working woman! ;)
ps Love to have the opportunity to see your pretties- prior to publcation!
As for the Tilli Tomas, it's gorgeous- and a treat- a knitter would have to plan a head on that one--- but, if you REALLY loved it...you could always.... have a yard sale/ fund raiser...e-bay destashing....;)to offset the cost!
I am sort of crushing on the happy accident in light blue :) The skirt and sweater are also very inspiring...It's always a treat to see just what you'll come up with next.
I understand what you're saying about the yarn moving you and being perfect. But out here where noone is providing the yarn for our projects, $28 a 50 gram skein is awfully steep. It's hard to justify that kind of expenditure when you've got kids at home and in college. It's ok for designers to stick wholeheartedly with one specific brand of spendy yarn, but by doing so, he or she risks their wonderful, well thought out project being nothing but a picture in a magazine.
I really, really love the Sweater From Oregon, and the Happy Accident that resulted from it. Will there be patterns for both?
I'm sure that the readers of knitting magaines include people of all income levels. Not every project is for every reader. Some will cost $20 to make and some $200+ and that's the way it should be, to make sure there's something for everyone.
I can understand both sides of the argument. Price certainly is often a consideration when I'm looking at something to knit. My biggest complaint though is when designers don't list the specific yarn used - sometimes I want to duplicate the item *exactly* and when it just says "worsted weight yarn" I have no idea what brand, color, fiber, yardage, etc. I'd rather you list a fabulously expensive yarn and let me figure if and how I want to substitute.
You've got some incredible designs there! Thanks for posting "previews"
Inspirational & aspirational projects are so important to keep the craft fresh. Thanks Annie for designing another inspirational garment!
I'm so refreshed that designers are (at least occasionally) given the freedom to follow their muse and use just the right yarn for the garment. At the LYS where I work we always have to pay attention to whether a project we feature is in the "right" price range. But over and over those projects which break the mold are the ones which inspire us and our customers to try something new.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. As a shop owner, I'm always game to make money, but it's also really wonderful to work with people who've found the ideal project and want to find some workable substitute that fits the requirements of the project and the consumer's budget. Further, if my customers ever feel like I'm trying to gouge them on price, my business suffers, so I treat every project as if it were my own. What's most important about this project? Does it need to drape? Does its architecture demand something with memory? Who's going to be wearing and caring for it when it's done, and where is it going to be worn? I'll be the first to admit that when I'm buying yarn for the store, I buy at numerous price levels, but I'm also very picky to buy yarns that have significant value regardless of the price. If the price tag is burdensome, then the fiber had better be equally amazing in one way or another. As a fledgling designer, though, I have to admit that the fibers that really inspire me tend to be at least moderately special in some way; they're seldom the most expensive yarns I can find, but they're also rarely budget-priced.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. As a shop owner, I'm always game to make money, but it's also really wonderful to work with people who've found the ideal project and want to find some workable substitute that fits the requirements of the project and the consumer's budget. Further, if my customers ever feel like I'm trying to gouge them on price, my business suffers, so I treat every project as if it were my own. What's most important about this project? Does it need to drape? Does its architecture demand something with memory? Who's going to be wearing and caring for it when it's done, and where is it going to be worn? I'll be the first to admit that when I'm buying yarn for the store, I buy at numerous price levels, but I'm also very picky to buy yarns that have significant value regardless of the price. If the price tag is burdensome, then the fiber had better be equally amazing in one way or another. As a fledgling designer, though, I have to admit that the fibers that really inspire me tend to be at least moderately special in some way; they're seldom the most expensive yarns I can find, but they're also rarely budget-priced.
Dear Annie,
Thank you so much for your reply, and on your blog no less! I appreciate and respect your answer. I am in awe of your last two post's pictures- it pretty much wraps up any doubts that I will definately be buying your book Romantic Knits!! Thanks again.
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