Our Featured Pattern of the week...

Crocheted Toe Up Shell Sock
Courtesy Anastacia

brought to you by the

2006 Crochet Pattern-A-Day™ Calendar

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Design: Toe Up Shell Sock
designer: Anastacia

These lovely toe up socks are not terribly difficult to work up, and are warm and cozy!

Skill Level - Intermediate

Materials: approx 150 grams of sock weight yarn Divide into 3 50 gram balls - 50 for each sock, and 50 grams for the afterthought heel. (one for each foot) You will have leftovers.

Hook: Size E or F hook or size to get gauge

Notions: Two stitch markers or safety pins (a scrap piece of yarn works in a pinch)

Gauge: 3 shells worked in the round = 3"

Stitches: sc - single crochet, hdc - half double crochet, sh st - shell stitch, dec sh st - decrease shell stitch, fpdc, bpdc

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe
Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook (mark stitch) & in next 8 ch, work 3 sc in last chain stitch, marking center of the 3 sc.

Rounds 2, 3, 4: work in continuing spiral rounds with no starting chain in round unless otherwise noted. Sc around, working 3 sc in each marked stitch around. At the end of the last round you should have 36 sc. Remove markers.

Round 5: Sh st in first stitch, (skip two sc, sh st) rep to end of round.

Round 6: 1 sh st in each ch one space around.

Foot
Repeat for as many rounds as needed to equal two inches less than your total foot length. Measure carefully & mark number of rows of shell pattern, so that when you make your second sock your socks match exactly. (21 shell rounds were worked in size 8 sample sock) DO NOT FO!

Heel Opening
Flatten sock so that your toes are positioned correctly, and mark each side of foot. Work in pattern to the first marker, ch 24, sk to next marked stitch. Heel will be worked later after sock top is finished.

Sock Top
Moving markers up each round, continue working top of sock as foll:

Next round: starting with 24 ch space, (sh st, sk 2 ch) rep to end of ch space. Continue working in shell pattern as for foot for 2 (3 for large ankle) rounds.

Decrease round:
Next round: (
Dec sh st over next two shell spaces, work in pat to next marker) rep until two more rounds are worked for a total dec of 4 sts.

Ribbing
Work 40 dc evenly spaced around.

Round 2 ribbing: work fpdc in first stitch, (bpdc in next stitch, fpdc in next stitch) rep to end of round.

Round 3 & following rounds: Work fpdc in all fpdc stitches & bpdc in all bpdc stitches.

Repeat around for as many desired rows or until you almost run out the 100 grams of yarn, FO.

Afterthought heel: using separate 50 gram ball of yarn, work sc evenly around the chain space & onto the other side of the sock. (55 sc worked in sample)

Work 3 rounds even, then dec 4 sc every other round until 12 (15 for larger sock) sc remain. Try on your socks frequently at this point & make sure your heel fits you well, and change how often you decrease if needed.

End off, sew seam, and enjoy your socks!

FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet
YO, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated, draw up loop, (YO, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Skip stitch behind Fpdc on working row.

BPDC - Back Post Double Crochet - Bpdc:
YO, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated, draw up loop, (YO, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Skip stitch behind Bpdc on working row.

SH ST - Shell Stitch
Work (two hdc, ch 1, two hdc) all in same space.

DEC SH ST - Decrease Shell Stitch
Work hdc in space, then (yo, insert hook into same space & draw yarn through, yo, insert hook into ch 1 space of the next shell stitch, yo, & draw through all loops on hook, ch 1, work 2 hdc in ch 1 space

HDC - Half Double Crochet
Yarn over hook.
Insert hook in the next stitch to be worked.
Yarn over hook.
Pull yarn through stitch.
Yarn over hook.
Pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (one half double crochet made).

SC - Single Crochet
Insert hook in stitch.
Yarn over hook.
Pull yarn through stitch.
Yarn over hook.
Pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (one single crochet made).

Spike
Insert crochet hook into previous round and pull loop through. Work as sc, dc or tr as directed in pat.

Twisted Cord
Measure a length of yarn 4 times longer than desired length of final twisted cord. Fold the strand in halfand make a slipknot at the cut ends. Pass the slipknot over a doorknob and stand far enough away so that the yarn hangs in midair and does not touch the ground.

Slip a crochet hook into the loop in your hand and, while still holding the yarn in the left hand, twirl the hook to twist the yarn around itself. Continue twisting until the yarn is quite taut and evenly twisted.

Still holding one end of the yarn in your left hand, with your right hand pinch the twisted strand midway between yourself and the doorknob. Bring the ends of the yarn together by moving toward the doorknob, but DO NOT LET GO OF THE MIDDLE OF THE TWISTED YARN. You will notice as you let go of the pinched midpoint of the twisted yarn it will twist around itself forming a plied cord.

Still holding tight to the ends so the twisted cord doesn't unwind itself, loose the yarn end from the doorknob and tie both ends together. You can run your finger between the cords to even out the twists if necessary.

2/C Variation

Measure 2 lengths of yarn each twice as long as desired length of final twisted cord, 1 in color A, 1 in color B. Fold the "A" strand in half, then mark the center point of this double strand as point X. Do the same with the strand of B. Lay each double strand on top of each other at points X and fold both in half so that you have a strand of quadruple thickness, 1/2 of the length in A, 1/2 of the length in B. Pass the slipknot over a doorknob and stand far enough away so that the yarn hangs in midair and does not touch the ground. Continue working as for single color twisted cord, above.